ZOE SZUCH
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My grandparents, Stephanie and John Riopka, have taught me many things – work hard, be honest and give people the benefit of the doubt – but above all they taught me about my Ukrainian culture, history and traditions.
I suppose it doesn't hurt that they have run one of the most successful Ukrainian catering businesses in Toronto for nearly 50 years. They've catered several functions on one weekend for 500 to 600 people at a time, and I sort of grew up at their apron strings. I've helped prepare Ukrainian Christmas dinner for as long as I can remember, but have never cooked the entire 12-course meal on my own. Until now, that is.
Here's a quick guide to hosting a traditional Ukrainian Christmas dinner:
Christmas Eve for Ukrainians and other Eastern Orthodox followers, commonly Greeks, Serbs, Macedonians and Romanians, falls on Jan. 6. The Holy Supper (or Sviata Vecheria) is held on Christmas Eve rather than Christmas Day as is most common in Western tradition.
The Holy Supper starts after sundown, when the first star appears in the Eastern sky, symbolizing the Star of Bethlehem. The oldest member of the household calls all family members to the table and leads the family in prayer. The family sits down to a beautifully decorated table set with one empty place setting, for any last- minute guests. My grandmother has always told me it was a sin to turn away any stranger who comes to your household on Christmas Eve.
The centrepiece of the table is a three-tiered braided Christmas bread wreath (known as a kolach). The three tiers and braids symbolize the Holy Trinity whereas the circular shape of the wreath symbolizes eternity.
A handful of hay usually purchased at a Ukrainian market is placed under the table to remind us that Jesus was born in a manger. Considering Medicine Hat doesn't have the plethora of Ukrainian markets, stores and Ukrainian church basements that Toronto does, I'll substitute decorative Christmas hay with hay or straw from a craft store. While at the craft store, you should also pick up a sheaf of wheat (or didukh) which must be placed under an icon, to commemorate deceased relatives and ancestors.
After the prayers are said, the family sits down to the first course which is always the kutia, a sweet mixture of cooked wheat, honey, poppy seeds and nuts. The second course is usually a traditional beet soup (borscht) with mushroom and onion dumplings, called vushka.
The remaining nine courses, which include fish, perogies, cabbage rolls with rice and buckwheat (holubtsi), cheese and sauerkraut crepes (nalystnyky), cabbage, potatoes, and an assortment of vegetables, can be eaten in any order. Dessert is comprised of a fruit compote (uzvar) and home-made doughnuts, called pampushky.
Beet soup, cabbage rolls and perogies can be home-made, or thankfully, picked up at most local grocery stores in Alberta.
After dinner, the dishes are cleared from the table but not washed. My grandpa tells me that he, too, wants a break on Christmas Eve, but my grandmother insists it's sacrilegious to do any housework on such a holy day. All of the food is put away except for the kutia (sweet cooked wheat and honey mixture) which we leave on the dinner table overnight. It is said that spirits of the dead walk the earth on Christmas Eve and leaving food for them will bring health, happiness and good fortune to everyone. From my Ukrainian Christmas table to yours, Khrystos Razhdaietsia. |
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